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Lucky Dog Sports Club in Jupiter Positive, rewards-based training
February 2009
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Greetings!
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 We are having awesome weather and it's a perfect time for training. There are obedience, agility, and puppy classes scheduled through May, so choose one today and have fun with your dog! Special congratulations
to my good friend Cynthia Kean and her terrific 11-year old border collie, Nellie (that's her in the photo), on their MACH3! A wonderful achievement to a great team. Nellie shows no signs of slowing down! |
Jumping for Joy! NEW CLASS! |
Agility Jumping Skills is our brand new agility class. This 6-week class begins Tuesday, March 3rd at 7:30 p.m.
To be successful in the sport of agility, your dog must be a skillful jumper. Every AKC or USDAA course your dog will ever run is primarily made up of jumps; yet, is it the least understood skill set in agility. When a dog understands how to jump, he will run more smoothly, efficiently, and decisively. Based upon Linda Mecklenberg's jump training, this class is geared towards both dogs just learning to jump, as well as recommended for all dogs already competing in agility.
The class will increase your awareness of your dog's natural responsiveness to your body language and the effect it has on his or her jumping. Among other things, you and your dog will be taught how to cue and understand extension and collection. With collection, your dog will be wrapping jumps cleanly and efficiently. This will increase your speed and success on the course. Correct jumping skills means fewer dropped bars and off-courses.
We will work on single jumps, grids, boxes, and other combinations to improve your handling and your dog's understanding of how to jump. You will also work on acceleration, deceleration, and lateral motion cues. Access to a jump (or several) outside of class is required. For best results, plan on working on jump drills daily. This class is suitable for all adult dogs over a year of age.
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Contact Information:
Mindy Cox, Training Director
Phone:
561-371-2038 (cell)
561-427-6700 (M-Th days)
Any suggestions or comments? Please email. I value your feedback. | |
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Agility Class & Events Schedule |
For complete descriptions, fees and registration form click on the class name.
Puppy Agility Fun! The next class begins Monday, April 13th at 6 p.m. Ends May 18th. For puppies between the ages of 6 to 12 months. In this class you will begin to work on agility skills to give your puppy better balance and confidence, while you also improve your obedience and handling skills. This class is held indoors in our training room.
Puppy Agility 2 begins Monday, March 2nd at 6 p.m. Ends April 6th.
Intro to AgilityThe next class begins Wednesday, April 15th at 6:15 p.m. Ends May 27th (no class April 29th)
Beginning Agility(formerly Agility Level I) begins Wednesday, March 4th at 6:15 p.m. Ends April 8th.
Novice Agility (formerly Agility Level II) Next class begins Thursday, April 16th at 6 p.m. Ends May 21st.
Intermediate Agility Begins Thursday, March 5th at 6 p.m. Ends April 9th.
Masters/Advanced Agility Handling & Skills Next classes: Monday, March 2nd at 7:15 p.m. and 8:30 p.m. Ends April 6th. Monday, April 13th at 7:15 p.m. and 8:30 p.m. Ends May 18th.
NEW CLASS! Agility Jumping Skills Begins Tuesday, March 3rd at 7:30 p.m. Ends April 7th.
Sunday, February 22, 2009 (moved from February 15th)
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Gates open at 4:30 and first dog will be ready to run by 5:15 p.m. Crating is indoors in climate-controlled comfort. All levels (starting with Level II students) are welcome to practice this nested course (novice/open and excellent). After everyone runs the first course we will reverse it for another run. The lighting and footing are great. Fee: $10 per dog (2nd dog $5). Email us with your name, and your pet's name, breed, jump height, and level (novice or excellent). Space is limited. Sign up now! |
Obedience Schedule
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For complete description, fees and registration form click here.
Focus Foundation is one of our most popular classes. This class teaches or improves obedience skills such as sit, down, stay, come, loose leash walking and no jumping. It also improves attention, focus and impulse control. New classes scheduled (choose one 6-week session): Monday, February 9th at 7:15 p.m. Ends March 16th Wednesday, March 4th at 7:30 p.m. Ends April 8th. Tuesday, March 17th at 6 p.m. Ends April 21st. |
Puppy Classes
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For complete descriptions, fees and registration form click here
Ideal Puppy I is your puppy's first class, almost like Kindergarten. Your puppy must be between 9 and 19 weeks at the start of class.
Why should all puppies go to school? By five months of age much of your puppy's personality has been determined, so it is very important to begin a class prior to this age. Early puppyhood is a critical time for socialization and learning. This time will set the stage for the rest of your puppy's life. You will train and socialize your growing puppy. It is never too early to start them off on the right paw.
Next 4-week sessions (choose one): Session A- Thursday, February 12th at 6 p.m. Ends March 5th. THIS CLASS IS FULL. Session B- Thursday, February 19th at 7:15 p.m. Ends March 12th. Session C- Thursday, April 9th at 6 p.m. Ends April 30th. Session D- Thursday, April 16th at 7:15 p.m. Ends May 7th.
Ideal Puppy II Choose one 4-week session (immediately following corresponding Puppy I, above): Session A- Thursday, March 12th at 6 p.m. and ending April 2nd. Session B- Thursday, March 19th at 7:15 p.m. Ends April 9th. Session C- Thursday, May 7th at 6 p.m. Ends May 28th. Session D- Thursday, May 14th at 7:15. Ends June 4th.
Most people sign up for both Ideal Puppy I and II for 8 weeks of great training and socialization, and $50 in savings.Puppy Agility Fun!
Please see the Agility Class section for wonderful agility classes for your puppy, or go to our website for more information. |
Special Events at Lucky Dog |
Agility Fun Runs are scheduled through March, 2009. Please go to our website for more info. The next one is Sunday, February 22nd at 5 p.m. (I changed it from the 15th because I just realized that is the weekend when I will be celebrating my 30th wedding anniversary!) Email your name, and your dog's name, breed and jump height soon to sign up.
TDAA trial (Teacup Dogs Agility Association) will be at Lucky Dog on February 28th and March 1, 2009. They are also having a Run Thru on Friday, February 27th.For more information, email Carol Bowling at 1bowling@bellsouth.net. Go to TDAA for info.
Healing Touch for Animals Program
The Komitor Healing Touch for Animals Program will again be offering its Level I certification course on February 20th and 21st at Lucky Dog. In a group atmosphere you will experience simple hands-on practice with animals using the innovative techniques of Healing Touch for AnimalsŪ / Komitor Healing Method, Inc. HTA is said to assist animals with: Health Issues, Accidents and Injuries, Pain Control, Disease Prevention, Competition Performance, and more. For additional information go to http://www.healingtouchforanimals.com, or email Christa McCourt at info@healingtouchforanimals.com. |
Featured Article |
Is Your Dog Eating the Right Food?
Things to know when selecting the best commercial dog food
Here are some tips to guide you in choosing the best diet for your dog. Learning how to read a pet food label is an important skill to have.
No generic fats or proteins (e.g., animal fat or
meat meal) -- instead, look for named
sources such as beef fat, chicken
fat or lamb meal (the generic term indicates
a mixture coming from a number of sources,
a sign of a very poor quality food). Never feed a food that uses the generic
ingredients "meat meal", "meat and bone meal", or "animal fat". Animal protein
should be named and should also be at the top of the ingredients list. Animal
proteins are more palatable and are of a higher biologic value to dogs than
plant-sourced proteins. Ingredients are listed by weight, so ideally a food
will have one or two animal proteins in the first few ingredients.
Human grade ingredients (USDA approved). This item is somewhat controversial, as dog foods by law cannot be labeled human grade, but I look for companies that use human grade meats (not meats that were rejected by the human food industry). For even higher quality, look for hormone- and antibiotic-free meats, especially those that are free-range or pasture-raised (note that all poultry is hormone-free, as it is against regulations to give hormones to poultry).
Whole vegetables, fruits, and grains. Fresh, unprocessed food ingredients
contain wholesome nutrients in all their naturally complex glory, with their fragile
vitamins, enzymes, and antioxidants intact. They are also less likely to be
adulterated with impurities of any kind.
As few grains as possible (a whole-meat source should be one of the first two ingredients, preferably two of the top three) -- watch for splitting, such as listing ground yellow corn and corn gluten meal as separate ingredients which together might add up to more than the first ingredient. Note that canned foods often have fewer grains than dry. Whole grains are best; avoid grain fragments (such as "corn
meal" versus "whole ground corn". Avoid foods that use corn gluten meal, a cheap waste product from the human food industry that provides incomplete protein for dogs. I consider this ingredient to be one of the hallmarks of poor quality foods. *Wheat gluten meal*, one of the ingredients that caused illness and death due to contamination in the recent Menu Foods recall, is similar -- a cheap source of poor quality protein used primarily by the lower-quality foods. *Rice protein concentrate*, which was also involved in the pet food recalls, is a little better quality than the other two, but still provides incomplete plant protein rather than the more desirable animal protein. *Soy protein* has the same problem. No meat by-products or digest (meal is OK). There is some disagreement whether whole meat is preferable to meal. Meal has been rendered, but it is also dried, so if a meal is listed as the first ingredient, there is greater likelihood that the food contains more meat than grains. When whole meats such as chicken, lamb, turkey, etc. are listed as the first ingredient, there may actually be much less meat due to the weight of the moisture in the meat. Both whole meats and meals are considered acceptable as long as they are identified and not generic (e.g., *not* "meat meal" or "meat and bone meal"). By-products may be OK if the company specifies that they are human-grade organs such as liver and kidney, but otherwise they usually signify parts not considered fit for human consumption.
No BHA, BHT or Ethoxyquin (artificial preservatives), another sign of a low quality food. Ethoxyquin is banned from use in foods for human consumption except for the use of very small quantities as a color preservative for spices.
No artificial colors, no sugars and sweeteners (such as corn syrup, sucrose, ammoniated glycyrrhizin), *no propylene glycol* (added to some chewy foods to keep them moist, toxic in large amounts).
Meets AAFCO Specifications. Although I do not consider AAFCO to know everything there is to know about nutrition, if a food specifies that it meets AAFCO specifications, it should be a complete diet. It is fine to use foods that do not meet AAFCO specifications as part of the diet, but you cannot rely on these foods as the sole source of nutrition without adding other foods and supplements to the diet.
Switch foods regularly. We know; you heard that you shouldn't switch your dog's food,
or his stomach will get upset. If you ate only one food every day for weeks
and months, and then ate something else, your stomach would get upset, too. But
very few people eat a diet that never varies from day to day. Human nutrition
experts agree that a well-balanced, varied diet is critical for human health; so why
do so many people believe that variety is bad for dogs?
More info:
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