Over the past few weeks I have received quite a few requests for information on pruning Crepe Myrtles. Crepe Myrtles are a flowering ornamental shrub, and they can be a bit of a challenge to properly prune. In many cases, it may be better to leave the plant alone than prune it improperly. Hopefully this guide will give you the information you need to do a professional job pruning your Crepe Myrtle.
When Crepe Myrtles are pruned improperly it can have a number of effects on the plant. It can reduce the number of blooms that will appear during the summer. More importantly improper pruning can cause the branches to grow too long. This can cause them to bend and possibly even break during strong summer thunderstorms.
When Crepe Myrtles are pruned properly the effects can be beautiful! Proper pruning will produce twice the number of branches, and therefore, twice the number of blooms. These new branches will also be nice and sturdy to support the blooms.
Selecting the proper time of the year for pruning is also critical. Crepe Myrtles should never be pruned during the last two months of the year. Pruning in November and December can cause new growth to start if we experience a warming trend in January and February. Then when the weather turn cold again, the new growth will freeze and injure the plant. Late winter and early spring is the best time to prune your Crepe Myrtle.
When it come to pruning your Crepe Myrtle less is more. Removing too much of the growth will result in fewer blooms over the summer. The first step in pruning any shrub or tree is to take a few minutes to study it an develop what I like to call "a plan of attack". I like to start by removing the obvious problem branches. These are any branches that cross or rub other branches, grow downward, or show signs of damage. My next step is to remove sucker growth from the bottom of the plant. After completing these steps, you should have a clearer vision of the true structure of the plant.

Now comes the most critical phase of the pruning. This will determine the new growth on the plant during the coming season. At the ends of most of the branches there should be the remains of last years blooms, either in the form of dried flowers or seed pods. Follow the stems back until you find where these stems meet main branches or forks. You will want to cut the stem about 4-6 inches up from these branches and forks (see the figure above). Keep in mind that for each cut you make during this phase of the pruning, two new branches will sprout just below the cut later this summer, and new blooms will form at the end of each of those stems.
It's as easy as that! Of course, like people, each plant is different, and has it's own personality. It has been my experience of the years that doing the actual pruning is never as easy as it sounds when reading about it. Learning the art of pruning is something that can take years of practice, so don't get discouraged if your first attempt doesn't produce the desired results. Hopefully these tips will help you get off to a good start.