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grEen News from Smithfield Gardens Septemer 2008
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Dear Fellow Gardener,
Another summer is over - well not technically, but as far as we are concerned Labor Day is it. We should all be thankful that we had a few more rains than last summer, at least enough to keep our gardens on life support, and who can remember an August when the temperatures rarely went over 90? Let's hope the good weather prevails but only with a few more showers.
If you follow down the page you will see that we have resumed our free classes starting on Saturday the 6th. We like to take a break from the classes during summer, especially since so many of you are busy doing other things. We have also resumed getting in new shipments of plants and other merchandise for the fall season. So far we have gotten in 3 or 4 trucks with fresh trees and shrubs, fall vegetables, and mums. Margie has gotten in new shipments of fescue and other lawn supplies, and her fall bulbs have started to arrive as well. She wants to remind you to apply crabgrass preventer now, so you won't be fighting it this fall, it also helps control other weeds in the spring. However, if you intend on putting down new fescue seed, skip the crabgrass control.
Hopefully most of you already know this, but fall should be a very active time for the gardener. It is the best time for putting in new trees, shrubs and most perennials. It is the ideal time to be working on your cool season lawn. New mulch, weeding and clean up should also be done. When you are ready to get started, please come see us where we will be waiting to help you.
Happy Gardening!
Your Friends at Smithfield Gardens.
P.S. - Please mark you calendar for our annual Fall Festival which will be October 4th and 5th this year. | |
Upcoming Events and Classes at Smithfield Gardens
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September 6th (Sat.), "Easy Propagating Techniques" 10-11:30 a.m. - Come learn how simple it can be to get new plants from your existing garden - Taught by Ann Weber
September 6th (Sat,), "Cool Season Lawn Care" 1- 2:00 p.m. - The next few weeks are the ideal time to get your fescue lawn in shape - Taught by Margie Cooper
September 13th (Sat.), "Tricks to Gardening in Tidewater" 10-11:30 a.m. - Specifically tailored to new gardeners or people new to the area - Taught by JoEllen Gienger
September 20th (Sat.), "Beyond Mums - Fall Bloomers" 10-11:30 a.m. - Seasoned gardeners know that fall is as colorful as spring. Come learn how you too can dress up your garden - Taught by Ann Weber
September 21st (Sun.), "Basic Garden Maintenance" 2-3:30 p.m. - This class covers basic, but often overlooked steps to a successful landscape - Taught by Les Parks |
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Register for classes
Other Events:
September 4-5th (Thu/Fri), "Historic Plant Symposium" at Monticello in Charlottesville. For more informantion visit www.monticello.org
September 10th (Wed), 7:30 a.m. - 3 p.m. "Horticultural Field Day" Diamond Springs Rd. Experimental Station, Va. Beach. For more information visit www.vahort.org
September 13th (Sat), 10 a.m. - 3 p.m. "Virginia Beach Master Gardeners Community Gardening Festival" Diamond Springs Rd. Experimental Station, Va. Beach. For more information visit www.vbmg.org | |
Going Green - Organic Weed Control ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Perhaps the most frequent complaint that many gardeners have about their flower beds and lawns is the difficulty in controlling weeds. Many of you are familiar with some of the more popular chemical weed controls such as Round Up and Weed Out. However, there are several methods for effective weed control in both your lawn and your landscaped areas that are earth-friendly. One of the first things to remember when controlling weeds in your lawn is that a healthy lawn is more resistant to weeds. When a lawn is stressed due to the various environmental conditions that we face here in the Tidewater area, it makes the lawn more open to many common weeds. Proper mowing, watering and fertilizing techniques can help prevent these weeds. Pre-emergent Pre-emergent weed control is critical in maintaining healthy weed-free lawns and flower beds. A pre-emergent herbicide controls weeds by preventing seeds from germinating. One of the most popular organic pre-emergent herbicides used is corn gluten, which is a by-product of the corn milling process. The important thing to remember is that in order to be effective, pre-emergents must be applied three times a year; February, May and August. Another fact to keep in mind is that corn gluten will prevent any seed from germinating, so don't use it if you plan on over-seeding within eight weeks.
Post-Emergent There are also a few earth-friendly herbicides that will kill weeds after they have already germinated. Burn-Out II is a herbicide made from natural plant oils that can be used as a spot-treatment. This is a non-selective herbicide, which means it will kill whatever it comes in contact with, so use caution when spraying around ornamental plants. Any resulting bare spots in your lawn will have to be re-seeded. Another post-emergent herbicide is Earth-Tone 4 in 1 Weed Control. The active ingredient is ammoniated soap of fatty acids, which works as a fast-acting non-selective herbicide. Areas can be re-seeded five days after using this product. Mulching Mulching is a commonly overlooked tool in weed control. Mulching helps prevent weeds and also helps landscaped areas retain moisture. Cloth weed barrier is also effective when used under mulched areas because it prevents weeds from germinating through it. With proper use of pre-emergents, good lawn care and mulching, lawns and ornamental flower beds can remain relatively weed-free. This will leave you time to enjoy your yard, instead of fretting over it.
Amber Flaim |
A Sure Sign of Fall - Pyracantha
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One of the harbingers of the fall season is the ripening fruit on the Pyracantha shrubs, also known as Firethorn. Not only does this colorful show begin in the late summer, but the berries (actually they are pomes) are classic fall colors of red, orange and even a few hard-to-find golden varieties. Although they are best known for their fruit, don't overlook the fact that they have very attractive clusters of white flowers in the late spring. Pyracanthas are evergreen in Hampton Roads and make excellent barrier plantings as they have lots of thorns up and down the stems. They are also good for attracting birds to your yard who like to use the shrubs for well protected shelter, plus they relish the fruit. Late in the winter the pomes will often ferment to the point that you could have drunken robins careening through your garden. Pyracantha can be a wild grower behaving at times like a shrub which wants to be a vine. This habit makes it ideal for fences, trellises, espaliers, and Pyracantha looks especially good growing up red brick walls and chimneys. Pyrancanthas should be situated in full sun, but they will also grow in some shade, however don't expect as many flowers or berries. They are not particular about soil types, but do avoid soggy or poorly drained locations. Pyracanthas are quite able to withstand poor, hot dry conditions, once they get established. They would benefit from an occasional fertilizing, particularly in the first few years. I would recommend a well balanced food, especially formulated for evergreen shrubs. Pruning is a little different on these shrubs than on other evergreens. Because one of their main attributes is the colorful fruit, you want to prune so as to avoid removing the pomes. This is best accomplished if you prune them while they are flowering. Avoid branches that have blossoms on them, and this way the fruit will have a chance to mature. You will need to be on the lookout for several insects that can bother Pyracanthas. Wooly aphids resemble lint clinging to the branches and can be a problem in the summer, but a strong spray of water will wash them off. Lacebug can also be a problem and these are best treated preventively with an application of environmentally friendly dormant oil in late winter. Pyracanthas are members of the Rose family, and most are available as either Pyracantha coccinea (Scarlet Firethorn), Pyracantha koidzumi (Formosa Firethorn), or as hybrids between the two. Perhaps the two most popular varieties are 'Mohave' with its early ripening orange fruit and 'Victory' with its later forming red fruit. Both of these will easily reach 6-10' tall and wide unless they are pruned. If these get too big for your garden, you may want to seek out 'Low Boy' which only grows to 3' tall and wide with orange fruit. Next spring at Smithfield Gardens, you should also be able to find a new variety called 'Silver Lining' with variegated cream and green foliage. This culitvar has orange pomes and only gets 3' tall by 5' wide.
One word of caution before you plant a Pyracantha - the thorns can cause a reaction in a small number of people, so it is best advised to use gloves when working around them. When I was a child, we had new neighbors move in next door where the previous owners grew Pyracantha. The first bit of gardening the new neighbor did was to remove the Pyracanthas, not knowing he was allergic, and he ended up in the emergency room with an anti-histamine IV drip. Although this type of reaction is extremely rare, it gave new meaning to him for the word Firethorn. Les Parks
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"What's That Big Gold Fern"
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That we sell more of this perennial in the fall than when it blooms in the spring defies garden center sales logic. Ferny- textured Amsonia hubrichtii goes by several common names, including Arkansas Blue Star and Narrowleaf Blue Star. It is a graceful, long-lived native plant that grows in a dense mass much like a small shrub. The large plant in our display garden (pictured here) has been in place since at least 1994, and sections have been chopped out at various times by our landscape crews when we had no potted plants in stock for jobs. Customers think we are lying when they are told that it dies back to the ground each year and still manages to achieve statuesque proportions again early in the spring. The soft billowy stems beg you to run your hands over it, and I really can't think of any plants other than some delicate Carex or Mexican feather grass that make me want to do that. The Amsonia genus contains twenty two species, the majority of which occur in a wide range of habitats throughout central, southern and eastern North America. There are rounded leaf varieties available at garden centers (like A. tabernaemontana) and there's nothing wrong with these---unless you've seen the needle-leaved A. hubrichtii first! Deer-resistant Amsonia's native habitats are well-drained creek banks and bottomlands yet they are quite at home in almost any garden setting as long as it gets a lot of sun. Sandy McDougle of Sandy's Plants in central Virginia says that it's tolerant of clay soil, and drought tolerant once established. Too much shade can make the plant floppy, and it would be difficult to inconspicuously stake this cultivar. The only maintenance required is cutting back the plant in early winter as you do your fall clean-up, or wait until the early spring if you like to leave some plants in the garden for ice and snow to rest on. The delicate A. hubrichtii species was named after Leslie Hubricht who first discovered it growing in the wild in the early 1940's. Amsonias are called bluestars because their early spring flowers are umbels of light blue flowers. The plant in our display garden is never totally covered with flowers, however the flowers attract beneficial insects and butterflies. And Martha would say that's a good thing. So why does the title of this article mention a big gold fern? Because in the fall the delicate foliage turns a brilliant yellow-orange, and it is a wonderful foil for blues and purples blooming nearby. Low growing Setcreasea pallida or Verbena 'Homestead Purple' would be a wonderful "skirt" at its base; and fall blooming asters like 'Purple Dome' or 'Fanny's' would be also be delightful. I have suggested this perennial to many customers over the years and have never once had any complaints. Is this the year you'll "go for the gold"? Ann Weber
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