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grEen News from Smithfield Gardens April 2008
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Dear Fellow Gardener,
Spring is finally here and let's hope, that it doesn't start out like it did last year. Do you remember the first weekend in April of 2007 was Easter weekend, and it snowed? April snow in Hampton Roads, that might have been more believable for Minnesota. Anyway, let's keep our fingers crossed and hope that winter doesn't return until it is supposed to, sometime in December.
This April happens to be the 75th anniversary of Historic Garden Week in Virginia. This year's events take place April 19-27. The tour is presented by the Garden Club of Virginia and proceeds go to the restoration and preservation of historic gardens throughout the state. Over 200 private homes and gardens will be open to visitors, and if you are interested, we have listed the local tour dates in the events calendar of this newsletter.
When you come to the garden center this spring, start looking by the front door for our new Manager's Specials list. This will be a way for you to save some money on several items from each of our departments. The list will be unadvertised and will change every 2 weeks, so stop by frequently. We look forward to seeing you soon.
Happy Gardening!
Your Friends at Smithfield Gardens |
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Upcoming Events at Smithfield Gardens
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ May 3rd BASIC PERENNIAL GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS 10-11:30 am (Saturday) Taught by April Riley Gain confidence with advice on soil preparation, fertilizing, & selecting perennials
May 3rd SELECTING & GROWING JAPANESE MAPLES 2-3 pm (Saturday) Taught by Les Parks Learn how to select and succeed with one of nature's most beautiful trees
May 4th SHADE GARDENING BASICS 2-3:30 am (Sunday) Taught by Margie Cooper Trees, shrubs, annuals, & perennials for varying levels of shade
May 10th MAKE A FLOWERING GIFT FOR MOM 10-11 am, 1-2pm 4-5 pm (Saturday) Taught by April Riley A special program for kids ages 5 and up *materials fee applies
May 17th CONTAINER GARDENING 10-11:30 am (Saturday) Taught by April Riley How to choose unique combinations just right for you
May 18th BUTTERFLY GARDENING 2-3:30 pm (Sunday) Taught by Ann Weber From the best host & nectar plants to rocks & puddling
May 24th FOLIAGE COLOR & TEXTURE - NO FLOWERS NECESSARY 10-11:30 am (Saturday) Taught by Ann Weber
Our favorite combinations for easy to maintain containers
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May 24th TRANSITION ZONE GARDENING - WELCOME TO TIDEWATER 2-3:30 pm (Saturday)
Taught by JoEllen Gienger Hints & ideas concerning water, soil, weather, critters & more
Most of our classes are free, however seating is limited. You can register by using this link.
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Register
Other Events ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ VIRINIA'S HISTORIC GARDEN WEEK These beautiful gardens are a great place to discover new or unusual plants! *Old Towne Portsmouth April 19th
*Williamsburg April 22nd *Virginia Beach/Newport News - Hampton April 23rd
*Norfolk April 24th
*Suffolk April 25th
Stop by the store to pick up the official Garden Tour Guidebook
April 19th 11TH ANNUAL GARDEN SYMPOSIUM
Ferguson Center for the Arts
April 26th (rain date May 3rd) The Second Annual Art Show at Governor's Pointe (next door to Smithfield Gardens)
10 am-4 pm
Outdor Juried Art Show | |
Three's a Crowd...Pleaser
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If you had to pick one plant that exemplifies spring in Tidewater, it would probably be the Azalea, and April is their peak month. We are fortunate to be able to grow nearly all varieties, from those that can handle colder weather to those that like it hot and sultry. One of my favorite groups of Azaleas are the ones that belong to the Southern Indian (Indica) Hybrids. I like these because they grow into large shrubs, have large showy flowers and enjoy our heat and humidity. Southern Indicas took a long route to get to Tidewater. Originally native to Japan, they were bred and hybridized in England and Belgium as conservatory plants. They were brought to this country in the mid-1800s and further bred at Magnolia Gardens outside of Charleston. From this breeding effort we now have some of our most common Azaleas.
There are three varieties of this Azalea group that I think are extremely attractive when intermingled in the same garden: 'Mrs. G. G. Gerbing', 'Formosa', and 'George L. Taber'. All of these get to be about 6' tall (or more) in Tidewater, and they bloom at about the same time in early to mid-April. Each also has enormous blossoms with wide, open throats and when examined, can rival the beauty of orchids. 'Formosa' has 3", deep fuchsia colored petals with darker spots down in the throat. 'George L. Taber' has 3.5", white blossoms that are flushed with a light to stronger purplish pink. Its throat has a darker blotch and it is also spotted with fuchsia dots. 'Mrs. G. G. Gerbing' is pure white with 3.5" blooms, and it was a sport of 'George L. Taber'. In horticulture, a sport is a chance variation in color, shape or size that can be selected and grown as a different variety. The primary reason that these look so good together is that all of the colors on 'George L. Taber' are found on both the 'Formosa' and the 'Mrs. G. G. Gerbing'.
The care for these varieties is the same as for all Azaleas. Filtered sun or light shade is preferred, though they can take more sun if provided with adequate moisture. They prefer moist, acidic soil amended with organic matter, and it is critical that the soil should also drain well. Soggy, heavy soils, and plants planted too deeply are the main reasons Azaleas die. A 2-3" layer of mulch will help moderate the soil temperatures and will help keep moisture in, we recommend pine straw or shredded hardwood. Use a regularly applied fertilizer that is labeled for Azaleas. When and if you need to prune them, it needs to be completed within the 6 weeks after they finish flowering. Pruning after that time may not be detrimental to the plants, but it will interfere with next spring's flowering.
If you would like to see these in person, they will soon be blooming all over Tidewater, or you can come in and see them in our nursery. If you have any questions about these, or any other Azaleas, please come talk to us - we welcome your questions.
Les Parks |
Going Green with Warm Season Grass
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Most people in our area love the look of fescue grass, with its nice dark green color and fine, long blade. What's not to love? What's not to love is the amount of chemicals, water, money and work it takes to make that grass enviable all year. Fescue is a cool-season grass not meant to live in our area during the summer so re-seeding every fall is a must. This can get expensive (the price of seed has been on a steady rise over the last few years) and can be a time consuming experience. These grasses also tend to use more fertilizer and chemicals than warm-season grasses, like our native Bermuda.
Not everyone likes the looks of Bermuda but there are others to choose from. Warm-season grasses tend to choke out weeds better, need less water and take up less time to maintain. Your choices are Bermuda, Zoysia, St. Augustine, and Centipede. These tend to do the best in our area but not all varieties so be sure you choose one that does well.
Bermuda is easy to seed in, tolerant of our weather and very good at handling heavy traffic. The only problem, and I'm not sure it is a real problem, seems to be the fact that people just don't like the look of Bermuda. If you know anybody that has a Bermuda lawn, check with them. You will no doubt hear all of the favorable aspects of this grass.
Zoysia is probably my favorite and the closest in appearance to fescue. This grass is great if you have lots of sun but it takes the longest time of the warm-season grasses to establish itself. Once established this is a tough drought-tolerant lawn that can take punishment. Seeding can be done with this grass but I do not recommend it. In my experience most people can not get it to germinate. Using plugs will do the best job of establishing your Zoysia lawn.
St. Augustine happens to be the favorite of our general manager, JoEllen. Her lawn has been established for many years and is almost maintenance-free. A St. Augustine lawn is shade tolerant, drought resistant and almost weed-free. This is a grass that has to be plugged in our area as its seed will not germinate under any circumstances. Arguably the toughest of all the warm-season grasses, the blade is large and lush which gives a lot of depth to your yard. The dark green color is very attractive as well.
Last but not least, consider the Centipede lawn. A very nice medium green color and wiry appearance make this grass look remarkably like Bermuda, however, this grass is a slower-growing cousin. Very tolerant of drought and heavy foot traffic, this is a great lawn for kids and animals. This lawn can be seeded or plugged and can choke out weeds when established.
So, my plea to you this spring and summer is do some research on warm season grass varieties and let's try to save some precious natural resources by putting in a warm season lawn. You will be so happy that you did!
Margie Cooper |
Help Save Our Waterways: Plants Can Help Filter Water
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As a direct result of some of the work-related seminars that I attended this spring, you all will be treated to an explanation of these easy- to- install outdoor water filtration systems. Before these talks I'll admit that I never wondered about the water as it rushed into the storm drains in my neighborhood. It was a revelation to me how much "stuff" like pet waste, pesticides, herbicides, trash, motor oil, antifreeze, etc. are rushing into the storm drains and directly out into the waterways without any sanitizing! Did you know that by using new forensic science techniques to match bacteria found in water to the bacteria from specific animals, including humans and domestic animals, scientists have found that dog waste is a significant contributor of harmful bacteria in our waterways? The contamination ends up in the waterways because rain water rushes off properties very quickly, and it carries with it traces of everything in yards. Now all those TV commercials reminding us to "scoop the poop" make a lot more sense to me.
Rain gardens are not something you construct to help make it rain (though we certainly could've used that last year). Instead they deal with the water that rushes off your roof during a storm and either runs directly out into the road because your property slopes slightly; or with the water that settles in a low area of your yard for a day or two. A rain garden can be described as a man-made depression in the ground that is used as a landscape tool to improve water quality. Rain gardens differ from bog gardens because the plants in the latter like wet conditions while the rain garden plants will grow in normal conditions and tolerate occasional wet feet. Bog gardens are also prime breeding grounds for mosquitoes unless you use a safe biological control like Mosquito Dunks.. Rain gardens are not supposed to hold water longer than a day or so; therefore installing one in an area with heavy clay soil without first amending the soil is not even desirable. The purpose of rain gardens is to slow down the rush of water so that it can percolate into the ground and replenish our aquifers (underground layers of porous rock, etc. containing water) and not run off into storm drains. The roots of the plant material in rain gardens act as "filters" and thereby can improve water quality, as well. Many people install only native plants in their rain gardens however other combinations of plant material work, too. Visit the recently -installed rain garden located at the Virginia Tech Research Station on Diamond Springs Rd. in Virginia Beach to see which plants were used in their design.
Though I do not have a body of water on my property, I now know the benefits of a properly designed and maintained riparian buffer strip. A riparian buffer is defined as strips or small areas of land in permanent vegetation that help control pollutants and promote other environmental benefits. The vegetative buffers are strips of grass, trees or shrubs established along streams, ditches, wetlands or other water bodies (like retention ponds). Again, the purpose of the buffer is to trap sediment, filter nutrients and keep fewer pesticides, herbicides, etc. from polluting said body of water. You can find out more about buffers online, but bear in mind that you must contact your local government for their regulations before installing a riparian buffer strip. I was also told by an arborist with the city of Chesapeake that the Chesapeake Arboretum is itself a riparian buffer, so you can see a large buffer in action if you visit this park.
There is a wealth of information online about rain gardens, so take a closer look at your property now to see if there's any way you can help protect our waterways. Share the ideas you find with your neighbors. The bottom line is that as a group, homeowners can have a big impact on improving this growing pollution problem. Your property can become more interesting at the same time!
Ann Weber
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