Traveling along Highway 5 from north to south, the first town visitors will come to is Versailles, population around 2,500.  Established in 1835, Versailles has a nostalgic downtown with unique shops and restaurants surrounding the impressive courthouse, listed on the National Register of Historic Places.  The Royal Theater, a restored Art Deco gem, is known for its theatrical productions and other entertainment.

Visitors to Versailles will not want to miss the circa-1877 Martin Hotel at 120 North Monroe Street, home of the Morgan County Historical Museum.  http://www.morgancohistory.org/. This 28-room wonder is packed from the basement to the attic with antiques, artifacts, oddities and Martin family

The Morgan County Historical Museum features 28 rooms offers a fascinating tour of the past.

memorabilia. Until it closed in 1972, the hotel was the oldest continuously operated by one family in the U.S.  It was a stop on the Butterfield Stagecoach line in the days when a room and three meals cost one dollar. 

In the lobby you can still see the hotel's original desk and room keys, and the registry with the signatures of Frank James, P.T. Barnum, and two Presidents: Grover Cleveland and Harry S Truman, plus the original "drummer's table" where salesmen displayed their sample books.  Upstairs, most of the former guest rooms are themed "mini museums," such as the Weaving Room with old looms, Quilt Room, Children's Room, War Room, Bride Room with gowns from 1860-1920, Tool Room, Barber Shop, 1927 Beauty Parlor with a frightening permanent wave machine, plus the Country School Room and Doctors Office with a bleeding machine.  The museum also features an old post office, a charming Victorian parlor, and an early 20th-century kitchen.  The old bell system, used to summon a servant, is still visible in the third-floor maids' quarters.  The museum is open mid-March through November or by appointment. Admission is free.

One of the earliest established golf courses at the Lake, and one of two along the west side of the Lake of the Ozarks Golf Trail is Rolling Hills Country Club, http://www.playrollinghills.com/.  Opened in 1955, Rolling Hills has continually maintained its grounds and updated its facilities.  "It's a challenging course but anybody can enjoy it," says General Manager and Head Pro Steve Nolawski, PGA.  "We're always doing something around here, and things just keep getting better."  Specifically, in just the past few years, a new clubhouse was built with a 120-person banquet room, the pro shop

Rolling Hills Country Club in Versailles offers a park-like setting.

was enlarged, the driving range was moved on-site from one mile away, the swimming pool was added and recently renovated, and a brand new fleet of golf carts recently arrived.  In addition, the club has put in zoysia fairways and the bentgrass greens are among the area's best. 

"Being a small-town country club, we can only charge $35 a round," Nowalski notes.  "And because quite a few of our members are retired, they play during the week so our weekends actually are quieter than many of the other courses at the Lake."

Eight miles west of Versailles on Highway 52 is the Grey Bear Vineyards and Winery near Stover.  Dave and Marschall Fansler purchased the 3.5-acre vineyard in 2003 and built the unique hurricane-proof Deltec building there in 2005.  The southwest-themed winery, tasting room and gift shop are housed on the first floor. Upstairs is a party room for catered events. 

Grey Bear wines are made from grapes grown on-site as well as grapes from the Fanslers' wine operation in Colorado. Among the most popular of Grey Bear's 15-plus varieties are Chicks & Tiggers, a soft sweet blush; Pride of Osage, a chocolate cherry Cabernet; Trail of Tears, a semi-sweet

A unique Deltec building houses Grey Bear Winery's production and sales facility.

Concord Norton; Black Dahlia, a hearty robust dry Cabernet Sauvignon; and Bear Claw, a dry chocolate cabernet.  For more information, call (573) 377-4313 or visit www.greybearvineyards.com.

South from Versailles, Highway 5 winds through scenic Ozarks vistas to Gravois Mills, population plus-or-minus 200.  Zebulon Pike passed through here on his way to Pike's Peak in 1806.  Osage Indians lived here before the French settled in.  The oldest town in the Lake area, first platted in 1884, Gravois Mills is the home of, among other things, a restaurant in a former church and Troutdale Farm, a trout hatchery that has been in operation since 1932.  Owners Dennis and Meritt Van Landuyt bought the scenic 140-plus-acre trout farm in 2002.  "We just fell in love with it," Merritt says.  For several years the Van Landuyts continued to offer public fee-fishing.  "That had been such a tradition here," she says.  "But eventually public interest dropped off and feed prices went up, so we felt the fish had more value as a wholesale product."

Troutdale Farm offers fresh, delectable rainbow trout.

are sold to restaurants and grocery stores in St. Louis and Columbia, Mo., as well as at the Columbia farmers market from mid-March through mid-November.  Even with three full-time and one part-time employee, she adds, "We are barely keeping up with the demand."  You can bring home some tasty Troutdale Farm trout for yourself.  It's open to the public from 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., Monday through Friday, charging $4.95 per pound, plus $1.00 deboned.  For more information call (573) 372-1900. 
 
Leaving Gravois Mills, an amazing sight, well known by locals, awaits.  Travel south on Highway 5 and turn right on State Road 135-3.  Follow this backwoods road through hills and hollers, and before long you'll see the famous Shoe Fence, a section of wire fence adorned with dozens of shoes, mainly tennis shoes of all brands and sizes, plus shoes stuck on nearby fence posts.  No one really knows how the Shoe Fence got started but anyone can add a shoe or two to it.
   
A bit farther along is another notable local landmark, the Cup Tree, a tall, twisted stump of an old tree in front of a house, adorned with dozens of coffee and tea cups and mugs.  
   
Farther down Highway 5 is the town of Laurie, population 650-plus.  It's grown considerably over the past few years.  "Off State Road O, the Millstone Condominiums, built where the old Millstone Lodge once stood, has just about sold out its 250 luxury condominiums, and the Blue Anchor Bay Condominiums has added several hundred new homes," says Mike Kenagy, director of the Lake West Chamber of Commerce.  "We're seeing more visitors here and certainly more permanent residents and second-home owners but we still have plenty of land available for development." 
 
A renowned attraction on the north end of Laurie is the Shrine of St. Patrick Church, home of the National Shrine of Mary, Mother of the Church. http://mothersshrine.com/ This internationally recognized, non-denominational shrine, founded in 1988, is dedicated to mothers everywhere, living or deceased, of any race, color or creed. The centerpiece is a 14-foot stainless steel sculpture of Mary that slowly turns 360 degrees in a natural amphitheatre, surrounded by fountains and a waterfall. 

The inspiring sculpture of Mary is a highlight at the National Shrine of Mary, Mother of the Church.

On the Mother's Wall of Life, the names of more than 2,500 mothers from 39 states and 14 nations are carved into the black granite.  Anyone can honor any mother with an inscription on the wall.  Visitors enjoy strolling through the serene gardens, the Prayer Path and the Avenue of Flags, and visiting the gift shop.  Admission is free.
   
Nearby the circa-1868 Old St. Patrick Church has been restored to its original condition.  The oldest church in Morgan County and the oldest stone church in the three counties surrounding the Lake of the Ozarks, it's listed on the National Registry of Historic Places. A historic cemetery and a museum are located on-site. 

Another popular attraction in Laurie is Bryant's Osage Outdoors, 716 North Main Street (Highway 5), http://osagetackle.com/, a well-known destination for fishermen,shoppers and sightseers from far and wide.  Owner Jamie Bryant explains his parents started the business in 1994 as a wholesale company dealing in original framed artwork.  "They had a small outlet-type store here in Laurie.  As their product line grew they moved into a local mall and since I was an avid fisherman I snuck in a little tackle-store area while mom and dad ran the gift shop," Bryant says. 

Today the 5,500-square-foot store features fishing reels, bait, tackle, boat accessories and rod and reel repair on one side, and gourmet food, candles, greeting cards, and log and willow furniture on the other side.  "I call it the bait shop boutique," Bryant says.  "There's nothing else like it anywhere at the Lake.  It really has become a destination."

The store also showcases Lake of the Ozarks history, and has displays of antique lures and hundreds of mounts from wolverines and coyotes to an albino deer.  "But it's not a hunting store. It's strictly for fishing," Bryant says. "If you want to fish we have it for you.  All of our employees and our family know everything about fishing.  We hold fishing seminars in the fall.  I'll even teach you how to fix your reel." And on the other side of the store, shoppers enjoy food sampling and demonstrations.  "We believe in superior customer service," Bryant says, "that's what separates us.  Plus, we are very competitive with the big-box stores."
   
The other Lake of the Ozarks Golf Trail golf course on the west side, Indian Rock Golf Club on State Road O in Laurie, http://indianrockgolfclub.com/, offers 18 holes of first-rate golf on a 300-acre course.  Its signature hole. #17, has a 140-150-yard fairway featuring a majestic outcrop of rocks at the back and a deep clearwater lake in the front.
   
General Manager Paul Irwin says, "A lot of people from the east side of the Lake come to play here.  We're glad our golf course is getting more popular, but we also enjoy working with all the golf courses at the Lake to promote the entire area.  That benefits everyone."  Irwin says plans for the course

In addition to great golf, Indian Rock Golf Club is known for its natural Ozarks beauty and thong trees.

include opening more areas to play, including expanding roughs and thinning trees.  Speaking of trees, Indian Rock is known for its thong trees.  The Osage Indians who lived in the area would bend thin trees in unusual angles to mark trails, springs or caves.  Indian Rock golfers can see a thong tree in the middle of the #12 fairway and behind the rocks on #17.

Highway 5 from Laurie leads to Sunrise Beach, where Lake Road 5-33 takes visitors to a moving veterans memorial at the American Legion building.  In Laurie and Sunrise Beach are numerous small family-owned and operated resorts that have served generations of families.  Hand-made directional signs attached to trees, resembling colorful folk art, point visitors to these friendly Lakeside resorts that offer a cozy, nostalgic atmosphere--plus updates like indoor and outdoor pools, hot tubs, WiFi and cable TV and boat rentals.
 
One notable example is Rock Harbor Resort, http://www.rockharborresort.com/, located in a quiet cove of the Lake's main channel in Sunrise Beach. Owners Cecilia and Curt Mooney bought the resort in 1973 and have enjoyed watching the children of their guests grow up, and return with their own children every summer. "Over the years we've renovated several times and added more units and amenities," says Cecilia. 

A well-known fishermen's paradise, Rock Harbor hosts numerous fishing tournaments every year.  In

fact, some groups have been coming back for 30 years, Cecilia adds. The resort has covered docks and fishing guides and fishing boats are available.  In addition, Rock Harbor also is a popular spot for family reunions, especially since the addition of a 70-person meeting room.  Speaking of families,

Kids have a blast at Rock Harbor Resort in Sunrise Beach.

Cecilia's parents and brother and the Mooneys' four children all work at the resort.  "The grandkids haven't started yet, but we're training them," Cecilia says.  "We're closed from December but we reopen on March first. That's when the fishermen start showing up."

A west-side newcomer that's grown quickly since it opened in 2007 is Captain Ron's Bar & Grill, http://captainronsatthelake.com/. Owner Ron Duggan, who has been in the title and escrow and property management business nearly three decades, says he bought the old, rundown Kula Bay mobile home park as an investment.  "It's a great piece of property," Duggan says.  "A friend said he'd manage the restaurant if I opened it, and there was a need for a good restaurant on the west side, so I did it.  My thinking was I'd build condos there if the restaurant didn't make it."

But Captain Ron's made it, and in a very short time the family-friendly, pirate-themed establishment (named for the Kurt Russell film) grew to include beaches, tiki bars, beach volleyball courts, boat and waverunner rentals, house rentals, dock slip rentals, live entertainment and several significant Lake-area events-above all, the Lake of the Ozarks Shootout. http://lakeoftheozarksshootout.org/. 

Captain Ron's took over the Shootout, which Powerboat Magazine named as one of the nation's eight "must-see" boating events, in 2008, prompting an eight-month, $3.5 million renovation.  Today more than 70,000 spectators in 8,000 boats come out to see boats flying over the water at speeds of more than 200 mph in front of Captain Ron's, competing for the "Top Gun" title.  The event also raises funds for Lake-area charities. 

The Shootout has grown from a weekend to a week of activities that attracts people to the west side of the Lake.  "It's a lot of work but it brings a lot of people and money to businesses on the west side,"

Many of the fastest boats in the nation vie for Top Gun honors at the Lake of the Ozarks Shootout at Captain Ron's.

Duggan says.  Soon after the Shootout, Captain Ron's hosts the Lake-area Marine Dealers Fall In The Water Boat Show.  "And in September the Lake of the Ozarks Bikefest also is a very big event for us," he notes.  "We keep adding events, expanding and upgrading and pouring more concrete," he says, referring to his two newest ventures, the "Old West" style Cannon Smoked Saloon barbecue restaurant, and El Capitan, the only Lakefront Mexican restaurant.  Captain Ron's will be closed for renovations in January and reopen Feb. 4, 2011.
 
Altogether, Duggan says he employs about 200 people.  "Captain Ron's has grown into a terrific property," Kenagy notes.  "It's a big boon to the area and has been a great economic engine for the west side."  Duggan believes the area's "slow, steady growth" will continue.  "Once Sunrise Beach completes its water and sewer systems, we'll probably see a little more development, including some strip malls and maybe a McDonald's," he says.  "We don't have the highway system here, like in Osage Beach, to accommodate heavy growth.  But people like it here on the quiet side of the Lake where they can relax and take it easy."

Beyond Sunrise Beach on Highway 5 is the community of Hurricane Deck, named for a 1.5-mile slice of high bluff along the Osage River.  Legend has it the name comes from the nautical term for a river steam ship's top deck, where the wind always blew.  Before the Hurricane Deck bridge was built in 1936, cars were transported across the Osage Arm of the Lake by a ferry that later became a

Hurricane Deck Bridge is a rare "upside down" truss bridge.

showboat.  The 462-foot bridge is a rare "upside down" Warren deck truss bridge, designed to give car passengers a view of the Lake. The Missouri Department of Transportation recently announced construction on a new bridge will begin in 2012.

"It's a very exciting time on the west side of the Lake of the Ozarks," Kenagy says. "Some exciting things are on the horizon, including good quality development, and that's what we like to see."

For more information about the Lake's quieter west side, and all the exceptional lodging, dining, shopping and entertainment options available throughout Central Missouri's Lake of the Ozarks, call the Lake of the Ozarks Convention and Visitor Bureau at 800-FUN LAKE , or visit www.funlake.com.


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NOTE TO NEWS MEDIA:  For your convenience, a complete library of press releases from Central Missouri's Lake of the Ozarks is available at the Lake of the Ozarks CVB web site.  Simply go to www.funlake.com and click on "Media" at the top of the page to access this article and other Lake of the Ozarks news.